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The Cayman is a great car. As always have a pre-purchase inspection performed by a Porsche specialist. Lower milage is always preferred, stay away from cars over 70,000k as gearboxes develop bearing noise around 120-130,000k. Also check for service. It is very important that the motor oil is changed every 8,000k(5,000miles) or sooner, and no more than 2 year intervals, using ONLY Mobil 1 0w-40. Obviously the newer the model the better. If a 2009 or newer is in your price range, there was a major engine upgrade in 09, that would be preferred. Also in the service records check that the brake fluid was changed at 2 year intervals. Earlier cars,>08 are also susceptible to Intermediate shaft bearing failure, see http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html . I hope this answers some of your questions.


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Hi there, currently I have a 928, and I am looking to buy a used Cayman.

Kindly I would like to ask for tips what to look at when decided to go ahead or not with buying any of the offered cars here in Dubai.

Thanks


Chris Mol
Captain and Maritime Consultant
Master STCW
http://dubai-yacht-charter-and-boat-rental.com

Yes JB, it looks like the alignment and air gap on the fork is incorrect. The fork for 1/2 seems slightly rearward of 3/4, although that could be the angle of the photo, and the air gap is certainly too much. 2-3mm as Pete says.


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Re: Hard to select 3rd gear by Marc BixenMarc Bixen, 18 Aug 2011 21:19

Hi Mark,

This transmission has not been in the car for months; it's now on the bench. I don't recall there being any issue with shifting from 5th to 4th.

The issue was shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The question I had, is still:
"The 3/4 (black) selector fork is not even close to the 2 - 3 mm Pete says is so important to smooth shifting. If it's this important, I shouldn't be measuring twice this number with the drill bits. Please check the last photo and see if it looks like I am measuring where the 2 - 3 mm should be measured."

Has anyone checked the photo in the link I posted to see if this (drill bit diameters) is an adequate way to check the clearance (as in Tutorial 7, reference Photo SF-13), without tearing down the transmission? I believe it is, but I need to know if it's not (and if not, why not).

Thanks,

Jim

How is your downshift from 5th to 4th?


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Re: Hard to select 3rd gear by Marc BixenMarc Bixen, 18 Aug 2011 16:45

Mark,
The trans is not apart. Removing the bottom selector fork guide plate is as far as I have gotten. I'm trying to make a educated guess on the basic problem before boxing the trans up and sending it back to the seller.

The shifter has a new ball socket and a new bushing. There is no slop in the shift linkage (well, past what's normal). The transmission now in the car which replaced the balky 3rd gear transmission shifts fine into all gears. I can hit 3rd gear with this troublesome 915 sitting out on the bench, but the shift rod (the one outside the transmission) has to be in EXACTLY a certain position. When it is in this position, it is not in the center (or even close) of the 3/4 ("black") selector fork faces. I have tried to document this condition on my website with photos in an effort to show what I belive the problem to be:
http://www.jimsbasementworkshop.com/Tech/915_shift_gates/index.html

The 3/4 (black) selector fork is not even close to the 2 - 3 mm Pete says is so important to smooth shifting. If it's this important, I shouldn't be measuring twice this number with the drill bits. Please check the last photo and see if it looks like I am measuring where the 2 - 3 mm should be measured.

In summary, 3rd gear selection is not hard IF you can find the exact position the shift rod has to be in to select the gear. Impossible from the driver's seat using the shift lever. I hope the photos and this additional brief explanation make it more clear than just saying it won't go into 3rd.

Thanks…

JB,
One other question, did you inspect all the shift linkage bushings including the ball socket and guide ring under the shift tower?


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Re: Hard to select 3rd gear by Marc BixenMarc Bixen, 17 Aug 2011 21:25

JB,
Do you currently have the trans disassembled? If so you may want to take a caliper and measure the 3rd gear brake band o.d. with the gear set assembled. If it's larger than 76.48mm than that's your problem, not the fork alignment. Factory spec is 76.3+-0.18mm for 3rd,4th&5th gear and 86.37+-0.17mm for 1st&2nd. Refer to Pete Zimmermann's trans tutorial http://porsche.wikidot.com/how-to:porsche-915-transmission-repair-tutorial-part-ii


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Re: Hard to select 3rd gear by Marc BixenMarc Bixen, 17 Aug 2011 21:23

This is a 915/61 ordered a couple of years ago from an individual through a online classified ad. It went into my '73 RS look-alike. From the initial installation, I always had problems getting it into 3rd gear. It was suggested to me to put several miles on it "breaking in the syncros". I used Swepco 201 as this was still in vogue before the other lube was suggested.

I put right at 1000 miles on the 915, mostly in town, doing frequent shifts, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 3, and so on. I have owned lots of different 915 cars, '76 though '84, and like to think I know the drill for shifting, and for adjusting the shift lever. The shifting never got any better, and I installed another 915, which I had had around the garage for years, freshened by a local friend. This one was fine through all gears, and remains in the car.

I recently decided to see if I could learn the reason for the balky shift, and put it up on the work table. I made up an indicator, mounted on the shift rod, to show the neutral rotational position of the shift rod in both the 1/2 and 5/R gates, and marked the stop for each. The 3/4 gate should be found in the middle of the two marks. I made photos of the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks, and the selector position for each through the bottom shift fork plate. The photos are on my personal website, but I didn't know if I was allowed to post a link here. My assessment is that the 3/4 shift fork is incorrectly adjusted. The prescribed 2 to 3 mm clearance adjustment shown on section 7 of the tutorial, and also in the factory workshop manual, actually measures 5.8 to 6.5 mm determined by appropriately sized drill bit shanks slid into place, then measured with a caliper. My assessment is that this is the root cause of the shifting problem. Any comments?

Hard to select 3rd gear by JB WilliamsJB Williams, 16 Aug 2011 22:18

eds,
Sorry I couldn't respond earlier, we do not have any rental tool program to answer your earlier question. As for the trans used in the tutorial, it was sold last year soon after the tutorial was finished, to a very happy new owner in N.Y. I have e-mailed Pete to see what is currently available. What year is your 911?


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Re: F/S Reconditioned 915 by Marc BixenMarc Bixen, 30 Jul 2011 16:44
Re: F/S Reconditioned 915 by eds911915eds911915, 30 Jul 2011 15:04

Anybody have some 915 essential tools for sale rent or loan i'm reconditioning a transmission. im in costa mesa ca. its a large requist but it never hurts to ask.

915 special tools by eds911915eds911915, 28 Jul 2011 03:05

Most unfortunate, and very unusual for an '87 car to have a broken stud. The "elements" must have won their battle. That said, dis-assembly and inspection will be the next step. You might find that the upper studs are all good, while the lower studs might have corrosion evident at about 2" in from the securing nut end. I would plan to replace all 12 lower studs (using 993 version full-threaded studs), and, not knowing how many miles are on your car, and what your oil consumption rate is, it might be worth considering having a machine shop, expert at the repair of 911 cylinder heads, replace all of your valve guides and any valves that might not measure within required parameters.

Good luck with it, and let us know how it goes!
Pete Z.

Hi Pete, this post was so helpful to me, a new Used 87 911 owner and rookie to the mechanics of Porsche. I am going to buy your book!

The reason I found this article is…. I took the car for a valve adjustment and discovered it has a broken Cylinder Head Stud. Do I need to have all 24 Studs changes or can I just have the Broken one changed. My mechanic recommends that I change all 24.

Nice to have folks like you out there.

Re: Cylinder Head Studs by CanadianCanadian, 08 Apr 2011 17:12

Yes, remove the 2 6mm nuts, 10mm wrench. You can hold the cover down with some firm pressure with your hand. Loosen the nuts but don't take them off all the way and you can press down and feel the pressure.
Remember you don't need to completely disassemble the tower to inspect it, it would be pretty obvious if it's damaged. To disassemble you'll also need a, I believe, 22mm maybe 24mm wrench and an allen same size as the mounting bolts, for the tension pin. Note the washers for spacing if you go that far.
You can also align the shifter in 3rd just as 4th.


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Marc,

Is that the part that one should carefully disassemble in a vise in order to prevent the springs from escaping with energy? I have not opened that one up, but given my leaning shifter I suspect that I should take a good look at that.

Thanks again VERY MUCH,

Rob
'83 911SC

I can get it into 5th but reverse takes some work. I am going to try your method of getting it done by starting with 4th gear. I will post my results, hopefully just a note of success rather than a request for more help!

Thanks for the reply,

Rob
'83 911SC

Rob,
One additional item. Recently I had a car in the shop with a shifting issue, diagnosis, there is a gray metal box, Porsche calls it a bearing, in the shift tower. It allows for the shifter to pivot on the left right axis. The bearing was cracked at one of the 90 degree bends. So check all the parts in the tower also and re-grease the pivot points while your in there.


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

Rob,
Is it just 2nd you're having issues with? Can you engage reverse and 5th? I like to set up the linkage in 4th, selector shaft straight and pulled forward, then you adjust the rotational adjustment with the shift lever against the 5th/reverse lockout plate on the shift tower. As for fore and aft adjustment, with the gearbox in neutral the lower section of the shift lever should be at a 90 degree angle to the tunnel/ floor. Also make sure you apply a little blue locktite to the tapered bolt on the coupler and the shift socket cup at the front or use a new bolt which has a nylon locking material in the threads.
NOTE: DO NOT grasp the transmission selector shaft with Pliers or vise-grips. This will damage the surface of the selector shaft and cause a gear oil leak by damaging the selector shaft seal.
Marc


Marc Bixen
RedLineTechnik.com
Red Line Service

A couple of years ago I was winding out first gear and just before I was going to shift into 2nd, it popped out of gear and refused to go back in. Ultimately, I took it into the mechanic. He kept it a long time and had to replace the 1st and 2nd gear synchros. After paying the $2700 bill, I decided to start doing all of the work on the car myself like I do on my truck.

After fewer then 5K miles on the fix but about a year into it, the gear box was feeling a little sloppy and I suddenly found that I could no longer get it into 2nd gear. Not being able to go without the car long enough to properly fix the problem, I hobbled around shifting from 1st to 3rd when I had to drive the car. The other day when I tried to back it out of the garage to take my son to little league practice it did not want to go into reverse. I read up on some related forums and came to the conclusion that I needed to look at the shift bushings. One guy even had a problem where reverse made his car go forward, and this project fixed his problem, so I was hopeful that I might even get 2nd gear back without needing to get into the transmission.

My shift coupler bushings were indeed cracked and it was a very loose coupler because of it. I replaced that shift coupler bushing, the ball cup shifter bushing, and the shift rod bushing. When I got it all back together, it was definitely MUCH tighter but I am having a very hard time getting it adjusted and still cannot get it back into 2nd. It can finesse it into reverse but can hear and feel a real clunk from the shifter area when it does go into reverse.

When it comes to adjusting the linkage after reassembling, I have seen mention here of having the shifter in neutral position, then pushing it to the left while turning the transmission rod (to which the shift coupler attaches with that needle screw) all the way to the right, one guy even suggested using rubber bands to hold the shifter to the left in the neutral area. This is not working for me and I have a couple of questions.

First, should my shifter be pointing upright? While it sounds like others have to pull their shifter to the left when doing this adjustment, mine seems to lean up against the left side of its boundary - I do not have to push it to the left - and I only feel any springy resistance when I push the shifter all the way to the right. Given the problems that I am having getting the shift coupling adjusted, I am starting to wonder if I have a problem in the shifter itself.

Second, if I can manually put it into gears independent of the shift rod (with the pinch clamp loose) then the problems are likely in the shifter and shift coupler area, right? Should I be able to manhandle that shaft that the coupler attaches to and put it into all gears? So the left rear of the car is first, left front is 2nd, middle rear is third, etc? Should I be able to feel it click into every gear like that?

I am dreading having to pull the engine and get into the transmission and am still hoping that my problems are not that deep.

Thanks very much in advance for any advice,

Rob
1983 911SC

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